Walking Amadeus S01:E03 "Leyte Arrival"

Episode 3 - Leyte Arrival

Tacloban, Philippines

One man's solo journey around the world - traveling through the
Philippines to a volunteer experience in disaster response with All
Hands Volunteers in Tacloban, Leyte after Typhoon Haiyan. What began as
simply hard labor became a lesson in resilience and sets the stage for
discoveries for years to come.

Tacloban Dining - A Post-Disaster Restaurant Recovery

When Super-Typhoon Yolanda struck central Philippines in 2013, it decimated much of what lay in its path, but the city has fought back in the five years since to one thriving with construction projects, new hotels, and an ambitious growth in new dining establishments. As a restaurant professional of over two decades and someone who has seen this city rise up in recent years, here are my picks for where to visit, what to eat, and some advice for concepts navigating this growing landscape.

Giuseppe's Ristorante
 Italian (173 Avenida Veteranos)

Guiseppe's is one of Tacloban's oldest restaurants, serving authentic Italian specialties such as different pastas, meats, and fish, as well as some Filipino favorites to welcome those who cannot go a meal without rice (not risotto). The owners are often there keeping a watchful eye on the dining room and welcoming guests such as the Mayors Romualdez, to locals, to foreigners like me. Staff are always friendly and prompt; the servers even made me a welcome back sign for a group photo one arrival! Ambiance is warm and comfortable. Go for family-style dining or single dining. I'm told the pork chop is a local favorite, but I usually go for the pizza. My first critique was that I like a Margherita pizza that has a better balance of the red, white, and green (rather than a cheese pizza with a few slices of basil for pizazz), and they are happy to accommodate. The pastas are delightful, but sized appropriate for a coursed primo, so you may consider ordering a secondo or antipasto if you are fairly hungry. No Filipino spaghetti here (grazie!)

Dream Cafe
Filipino & Australian (222 MH Del Pilar St) 

www.dreamcafe.ph

Just around the corner from Giuseppe's is this casual restaurant and bakery. In my volunteer days in Tacloban, this was a favorite Sunday morning treat for us foreigners who wanted some eggs and hash browns in a pleasant air conditioned atmosphere. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days a week, Dream Cafe is an oasis of comfort food, whether you want their Dream Big Breakfast from their all-day breakfast menu, Chicken Cordon Bleu, or Crispy Pata. I'm actually a little ashamed that I only really go there for breakfast (even in the afternoon), because all the food is consistently quite tasty. 

Cafe Lucia
Coffee Shop (Rotary Center, Real St., Sagkahan) 

Self-labeled a "coffee shop," Cafe Lucia is another fixture in the city's culinary landscape, yet it is not a full-service restaurant. The draw here is the location - situated with lawn seating on the Concobato Bay with gorgeous views of coastal Tacloban and the airport in the distance. Come for the coffee or a beer and enjoy the sea breeze, come as I do for the Tonno Pasta from their limited menu and watch day turn to night, but don't come for the service - while fairly efficient if you don't mind going back to the counter to order what you need, you would be hard-pressed to see a smile or hear a "welcome" or a "thank you" at any time in this establishment. Ordinarily, that might be an issue, but like I said - location.

Fyzz by Hotel XyZ
Greek & Japanese (P Zamora St)

Speaking of ambiance, Hotel XyZ is one of the best hotels in the city, so you would expect a restaurant to match, the Fyzz dining room perched up on the 9th floor has views that are unparalleled in the city as well as a comfortable, hip, lounge-style feel that is rare on this island. This alone is worth the trip here, and they even have live music acts in the evenings and a cocktail program that seeks to impress. Unfortunately, I always feel this place should be better than what it is. For the price and location, I would want more memorable cuisine; I would want all the guests' entrees to come out at least relatively at the same time; I would not want to have to pay separately for both a gin and a tonic when ordering a cocktail, which can be a bit expensive and annoying. This of all places in the city, one might expect a service staff to be trained to make appropriate recommendations, yet that doesn't seem to be taught very many places in the country outside Manila and Cebu. All of that being said, Fyzz is a classy place that offers uncommon luxuries in a city not accustomed to such and can be a charming way to spend an evening.

Jose Karlo's / Rovinare
 Coffee Shops (Real St - Downtown & San Jose)

Recent years have seen the growth of several in the coffee shop category, but few offer what Jose Karlo's and their newer sister restaurant Rovinare do so well. Both offer unique and cozy atmospheres for a cappucino or a nice lunch. They offer couches and different tables perfect for a business meeting or getting some work done in some peace and quiet secluded from dusty and noisy Tacloban. You can get lasagna or french toast paired with your choice of traditional coffees or sweeter coffeehouse concoctions. You can always find something sweet and delicious for dessert if you choose to linger; I like the apple pie a la mode. All day breakfast is much appreciated as are the smiles!

Kuya J Restaurant

Filipino (Robinson's Mall - Marasbaras)

Despite my best efforts to exclude large chain restaurants, Kuya J has consistent delicious Filipino food, and locals love it. With many offerings as family-style portions, it's great to go as a group and share traditional foods such as beef caldereta, pork sisig, or halo-halo. I went back by myself and had a delicious bulalo soup. The mall setting is a bit bright and not such an escape, but the food quality is sure to please the traveler and the local alike!

Brews + Breakfast: Fusion Coffee

Coffee Shop (832 Brgy 83-A Burayan, San Jose)

Walking in the door, you can tell this place is serious about its coffee - with a pour-over station adjacent to the counter that has also the giant espresso machine and a chalkboard that lists the origins of the available coffee beans. You might conclude by now I am a big fan of breakfast throughout the day - this is yet another - and they do the best scrambled eggs I have had in a really long time, maybe ever. Bonus points for including some salad with the foods; veggies are often overlooked in this city. Service is very friendly and welcoming.

Chew Love

Diner/Filipino/Asian Fusion (P Gomez St)

Home to thousands of cellphone-addicted, selfie-obsessed college students, Chew Love is an Instagram and Facebook haven, with everything in sight just as cute as a heart-shaped button. The food is just that too - cute - although some portions a bit small for my taste and the mac-n-cheese not at all for my taste. You can find classic beef, fish, and chicken Filipino dishes fit for a Barbie tea party and fun takes on refreshing non-alcoholic beverages. While the cuisine may not be the top draw here, the place is just so damn cute that you kind of overlook that little fact, and the clientele are probably more interested in what's going on in the virtual world anyway. I recommend the fish.

Sean's BBQ Pit

Barbecue (Brgy Tigbao Diit)

Outside of downtown on the way to San Juanico Bridge along the highway is a sign for barbecue - "smoked low and slow." I instantly knew they weren't selling the same innards and pig fat on-a-stick that are at EVERY SINGLE BBQ STALL IN THE CITY. I found this place on accident while walking by, and it may be unlike anything I've been able to find in the city, with it's long entrance past a manicured lawn and newly planted trees, bamboo huts for semi-private dining, and an outdoor dining room that feels a bit like a biergarten in Munich. However, few actual barbecue items exist on the menu from this American's perspective (and fewer when they are sold out of pulled pork), but I think that's fine for a new restaurant, as long as they do what they do well. The burger was a good choice - with fried egg and onion rings. I really must go back for the brisket, although it was a bit more than I wanted to spend at lunch. Grab a few friends and take the multicab out here and enjoy the day.

Otabeya

Japanese (Esperas Ave) 

Just across the street from the playground at Astrodome and the Typhoon Yolanda Memorial in the wedge of buildings that begin to separate Esperas Avenue from Real Street, on the second floor, is one of my new favorite eating destinations. On a personal quest to find the world's best ramen, this is not it (I swear these are places I recommend), but it is well-made and tasty. However, you are greeted in gleeful Japanese upon opening the sliding door to enter. Friendly smiles welcome you immediately and make you feel at home, commensurate with the claim of "home cooking." Aside from the two ramen choices on the menu (I prefer the spicy, and in the photo they added an extra half egg), most of the rest of the menu is more izakaya in style, and everything is tasty and very well done. Try the seared and delicately moist gyoza, the unbelievably tender chicken karaage with sesame sauce (I add some of the hot chile oil), and the steamed spicy edamame. Yes, try those, but the highlight for me is the takoyaki. Someone brought the idea of takoyaki to the Philippines, yet outside of Otabeya they don't seem to get it right. Here the takoyaki is perfect - hot and creamy center, tender chunks of octopus, and bonito flakes dancing as a garnish atop the hot deliciousness. Go.

To the People I Met Along the Way Around the World

Everyone should be so fortunate. I set out on a journey of unknown destinations two years ago, and one question I had for myself was - "Whom would I meet?" I knew I would probably stop and see certain friends in France, Ireland, England, and Japan, however who would come into my life and help change the way I see the world forever? What apparent irony to discover on a solo excursion the greatest lesson to be found in the people who choose to take the time to walk with you along the way.

It would take a book to regale you with tales of everyone I met and our times together, and I most certainly would inadvertently leave someone out if I tried. However, I have been on the receiving end of so many kindnesses while out in the world, I felt it was worth highlighting a few as this chapter of Walking Amadeus comes to a close.

Muona, Malawi

Barnabas and Henry
In rural Malawi, it is impossible for a non-African to stay for any length of time incognito. As a volunteer, I stayed in a small village with one main dirt road and not many places to go to socialize. However, there was a little hut that served maize beer and afforded one the opportunity to sit on milk crates outside with some of the locals. As someone who sticks out in a crowd on that continent, people seemed interested in discovering who I was and why I was there, and I met these two gentlemen. Breaking one of my rules of international travel - don't go places with strangers when you are completely reliant on them to get you back in one piece - I  rode bikes with them to a river in the middle of nowhere. Fortunately, we had a nice time, and I was lucky to have been able to engage with them. In the end, I realized I had met two guys who had very little, but felt quite rich to be able to befriend me and share a slice of local life.

Valle D'Aosta, Italy

Susi and Roberto
Susi and I were fast friends while volunteers together in the Philippines. I enjoy people who have lively spirits and make it easier for me not to have to try to control the conversation. When I visited Milan, she introduced me to her friends, and we had a nighttime bike tour around the city. We shared an interest for food and wine, and I couldn't have been happier... or so I thought - we then went to the mountains to visit her dad. He cooked for us and I got to explore what I found to be one of the most majestic places on Earth.

Pievepelago, Italy

Chef Bagatti and Family
I met my friend Alessia also while volunteering, and she was kind enough to offer for me to stay at her family's hotel for a week. Little did I know that nestled in the mountains above Modena was a family that would take me in - not just as a hotel guest - but as new friend of the family. Signora Bagatti is the chef for the hotel restaurant, and she gave me daily lessons in her craft after my morning cappuccino. Alessia's sister, Matilde, accompanied us on excursions hiking and to a nearby old town of which her mother used to be mayor. To show my gratitude, I cooked an American-style Thanksgiving meal for the family at the end of the week. It was a splendid time.

Bangalore, India

Ritika
Ritika and I were on the same team volunteering in Nepal. She is very intelligent and kind, and we seemed to get along well. I was allowed just a 72-hour visa to stay in India en route to Malawi, so I made sure to visit her. She and her friend met me out for dinner, and we must have sampled twenty different unique foods. While just a short visit, I appreciate that I had a very good experience.

Muona, Malawi

Peter
Our volunteer base in Malawi was inside the walled estate of Peter and his wife. Nearly every evening, we would meet after dinner outside for a chat. We talked about all sorts of topics, including religion, his country, the American presidential election, and others. I think he enjoyed picking my brain, and I was delighted in his perspective. As it turns out, he was also Catholic and invited me to his church for Sunday service. I feel really bad that I did not say goodbye when I left, but if somehow this reaches him, I'd like him to know that some of the best conversations of my journey were on his patio. (He is seated in the center of the photo.)

Makati, Philippines

H & J Crew
My first day in the Philippines, I went walking around the Manila metropolis and discovered that the heat and humidity of day was pretty unbearable. Luckily, there was an expat-friendly sports pub (with air conditioning) just a block from my hostel that was open all night long. The staff was so friendly that I decided to make it my hangout where I could escape the heat and watch international soccer and the NBA playoffs. The staff remembered me and made me feel at home each time, so eventually on my many consequent layovers in Manila, I made sure to visit Emy, Marlene, and Sha, as well as the others each time. They even helped me celebrate my 41st birthday.

Tacloban, Philippines

Fr. Ramil and Niño
When I knew I would be in Tacloban for some time, I asked if I could be a lector at Our Lady of Fatima Parish. From that day forward, Father Ramil (center of photo) brought me into the parish family and gave me a home away from home. He invited me on outings as well as to dinners. He would even find ways to work me into the sermons so that I was no stranger as long as I was there and made a point to try to find me a Filipina wife (so far unsuccessfully) so that I might stay indefinitely.

Niño (right) is a eucharistic minister at the church and took me in as both a friend and collaborator. We both have a passion for helping people in need in the Philippines, and it was wonderful to have someone to help explore some ideas for how to do so. He also encourages me to sing in Tagalog, which I hope the others forgive.

Tacloban, Philippines

The Grefiel Family
I was a foreigner and a near total stranger, but that did not deter this family from offering a place for me to sleep one night after a barangay fiesta. I would eventually become good friends with Maria and her brother's family of six (now seven). It was always a joy to be welcomed to visit and spend time with them.

All Hands Volunteers
I have now been on five different projects with this organization in five different countries. Volunteers come from many parts of the world to help communities in need after natural disasters, and they are some of the finest people I have ever met. To volunteer, please visit www.hands.org and tell them I sent you.

Tacloban, Philippines

Our Lady of Fatima Parish Choir
On my last visit to the Philippines, the choir took me on a tour of the local Catholic churches as part of a special week. My friend Ray made sure I was invited. My friend Mitzi sang to me (and reprimanded me for not bringing gifts from home). The others made sure I didn't get lost, and we took lots and lots of pictures. Among of the best parts of traveling around the world were the times I was blessed to hear them all sing - very talented and friendly group of special people. I just have to remember the pasalubong next time.


To the good people I met along the way - and there are plenty others - thank you for being there, and I hope we will meet again someday. Best wishes until then.

Preaching to the Choir

Members of the Our Lady of Fatima Parish Choir in Tacloban

I was still a little bit new as a lector at Our Lady of Fatima when I arrived for Christmas Eve mass and was informed that I should sing the Responsorial Psalm for the special occasion. This was not karaoke; this was a religious celebration with hundreds of strangers!

"You can do that, right? Well, we have asked someone to do it, but she is not here yet."

Am I allowed to say no? Luckily, she showed up and sounded much more angelic than I would have. Of course, any one of the choir members would have been an excellent alternative to me. It's not just me being humble; the choir with whom I have been honored to serve every Sunday I am in Tacloban, Philippines are really not only talented performers, but sweet and genuine human beings and devoted Christians. In fact, they make me want to be a better person.

We had a memorable Thanksgiving feast one week prior to the official American holiday before I departed the Philippines. True to tradition, we all spoke about the things we were thankful for this year. While it is difficult to to list them all, for me it has been a privilege to not only be considered part of a family an ocean away from the United States, but to have had the opportunity to stand with them and try to be my best self.

Brothers and sisters, thank you for your friendship that holds me to a higher standard, and thank you for the music that fills my soul with joy.

Happy Thanksgiving. 

Feeding Hundreds in Tacloban, Philippines

The Beginning of Barangay Kitchen

Prep Team from Our Lady of Fatima Parish

 

Barangay 83-C "Taguiktik"

My Friend and Interpreter Iries

Barangay 83-C Health Workers Volunteered to Assist

All Hands Volunteers from Project Leyte Serving the Food

Banana Nutella French Toast Sandwiches

Barangay 61 Basketball Court

 

Selfie with my Little Friend Rapunzel

 

It was a great day feeding over 750 people in several parts of Tacloban, Leyte, in the Philippines! We served french toast with bananas and apples for breakfast and made banana-Nutella sandwiches to distribute in the afternoon. Thank you to all of our donors and volunteers who helped make this a special day in honor of the survivors of Typhoon Yolanda.

Special thanks to Edbert Iman Babali for most of the great photographs captured that day.

Blessed With Smiles in Tacloban - Discovering the Philippines

Sunset View from Our All Hands Volunteer Base in Tacloban

Blessed are the poor in spirit; the kingdom of heaven is theirs. Blessed are the patient; they shall inherit the land. Blessed are those who mourn; they shall be comforted. Blessed are those who hunger and thirst for holiness; they shall have their fill. Blessed are the merciful; they shall obtain mercy. Blessed are the clean of heart; they shall see God.

Matthew 5: 3-8

I won't pretend to be your travel guide to a small city you've never heard of in the Philippines. You're not going to go there. Truthfully, I may not have ever made it to the country if I hadn't been called upon to work there. This is not meant as a discourtesy, it simply had not been on my agenda. That being said, Tacloban, for me, was ultimately a profoundly charming residence for more than two months of my life.

Downtown Tacloban by the Water

Situated in the northeast of the island of Leyte in the Eastern Visayas of central Philippines, Tacloban is neither terribly small nor relatively remote, having a population of about 200,000 and its own regional airport - comparable to my hometown, except you can actually use their airport (another story for another day). Tragically, in November of 2013, the powerful Typhoon Haiyan raged through Leyte and neighboring Samar. Violent wind and rain were followed by massive flooding, and deaths were in the thousands - official toll was 6,201, but estimates insist it was much worse.

A "Trike" can sometimes transport up to six passengers

Eighteen months later, I arrived to contribute to
the rebuilding efforts already long underway by All Hands Volunteers. At first glance, this was a dusty seaside town bustling with small roadside shops, jeepneys and modified motorcycle taxis, and people of all ages walking to and fro. Bake shops, pineapple vendors, and mechanics were at work. Mothers were busy scrubbing the laundry in the dirt paths between modest homes of scrap metal and wood. The scent of coconut charcoal grilling pork and various chicken innards was everywhere. The city was certainly back on its feet to the extent that it was apparently no longer
a disaster zone. However, one should not make the mistake to think - as is so easily the conclusion after news of a disaster is lost in the long shadow of time - that all was back to normal.

Pedicabs

But what is normal for these people? It was something to which I gave much thought while there. What did homes look like before the storm? Did people have different jobs that are no longer available? How many family members and neighbors exist now only in the memories of those remaining, leaving a void I will never feel? These are the questions I did not want to ask. Some volunteered information, but I imagined many had things they just didn't want to revisit. I can only tell you that life goes on despite the storm, but as evidenced in their stories, and even still referenced at church services, there is still great loss and a reality that cannot forget.

I was lucky to have met some fine people in the barangay (district) where I did most of my work as well as in other parts of the city. In getting to know them, I made some great discoveries without asking the invasive questions. One phenomenon I noticed during my stay was the magnificent smiles - from the kids walking to school, from the neighbors as I passed through from site to site, from the girls in the bake shop. Coming from a country and a life with so much, you realize just how silly "first world problems" really are in their proper perspective. However, still I considered - how is it that a people who have suffered through such a tragic event, many of whom seem to have very little, live with such delight and strength?

"God" has entered the discussion on more than one occasion. While many in my country seem to be trying their darndest to banish Him, I believe He may have sought refuge in the Philippines. Many Filipinos appear to be strengthened by their faith, and as a result, they feel blessed.

When Iries' eyes are smiling

Next, a word "content" appears to be quite relevant. My friend Iries explained to me that she is happy because she is content. The words appear similar, but they can be quite different. Her claim got me to thinking, because in my world back home, being content can be equated with lack of ambition. In the American model, one who is content will never break down barriers or accomplish the greatest heights. Content means letting grass grow under your feet. However, in the Philippine model, being content is the satisfaction of being grateful for what you have in life, rather than what you don't. Iries finds joy and contentment from being a mother. You can see it in her eyes, and it is the kind of happiness we should all be so lucky to have.

Susie (made me sisig!) with husband and daughter Jamie

Finally, back to the issue of "normal," I was fortunate to be invited into several homes during my stay - with a friend and her family, with people from the community in which we worked, and even in the home of strangers, just because I commented on hearing karaoke emanating from inside the house. In each instance, I was offered food and drink and was treated as a guest of honor. I think that must be normal for these people, and I like it! In my own experience inviting people into my home - even when I don't have much to offer - treating people to that level of esteem and offering a bit of yourself provides a special kind of dignity not easily found elsewhere.

The most difficult part of world travel is that you inevitably have to say goodbye to the people who help enchant your stay. Working in Tacloban is not your average construction site. Locals work alongside you, family members watch your work and sometimes bring you pancit noodles, baked goods, fruit, or cold soft drinks, and small children play all around where you are trying to carry heavy lumber and sacks of cement. We were a part of their world. They were what made ours bearable, and at times joyous. Thanks for opening your hearts and homes to us, friends of Tacloban. I wish you all the grace and happiness you deserve, that future storms pass you by, and that you always keep those magnificent smiles.

Allan! Jeepney driver and friend

Two of our lovely three bake shop girls

Hey, what's your name?!

Nancy and family hosted some great break-time meals

Kids from the barangay belting out the tunes

Gladiator Team attending the official hand-over of an All Hands home

Monaliza's voice was always music to my ears

Melvin - one of our jeepney drivers and friend

Josh's birthday, complete with videoke - I didn't know anyone there, but was ushered in to join the fun

To find out about All Hands Volunteers projects around the world, please visit:
www.hands.org